Rooftop view over the rooftops of the Marrakech medina

The Journal

Stories From Marrakech & Beyond

Notes, guides, and local insight from the LUMARMADE team written by people who live here.

Sunset over the dunes of Merzouga in the Sahara

Featured

A First Timer's Guide to Sleeping in the Sahara

From choosing between a shared camp and a private one, to what actually happens after the camels stop walking everything we wish every guest knew before their first night in Merzouga.

Most people picture one thing when they think about sleeping in the Sahara: a single tent, a single fire, and a sky full of stars. That part is true. What surprises first-time guests is everything that happens around it, and how different one desert night can be depending on a handful of decisions made weeks before departure.

Shared camp or private camp

A shared camp puts you alongside other small groups, with communal dinners, a shared fire circle, and a set schedule for the camel trek and the sunrise departure. It works well if you enjoy meeting other travelers and don't mind a fixed itinerary. A private camp gives you your own dune, your own staff, and a schedule built around your group only, which matters more than people expect once the sun goes down and everyone is tired from the ride in.

The camel ride is shorter than you think

Guests often imagine hours in the saddle. In practice, the trek from the last accessible point by vehicle to camp is usually under an hour, timed so you arrive as the light turns gold. Comfortable, closed shoes and a scarf for the wind matter more than any riding experience.

What actually happens after dinner

This is the part no one tells you about. After the meal, most camps put out the fire and the generator lights within an hour or two, which means real darkness arrives fast. Bring a small headlamp for the short walk to your tent, and expect the temperature to drop quickly even if the day was hot, desert nights get genuinely cold, so a warm layer is not optional even in summer.

Sunrise, then the quiet drive back

Camps wake guests early, before first light, to climb a nearby dune and watch the sunrise before the heat sets in. Breakfast follows back at camp, then the camel or vehicle transfer out. Plan for a slow, tired morning; most people doze on the drive back to Merzouga or onward toward Marrakech.

If it's your first time, our advice is simple: choose a private camp if you can, pack a warm layer regardless of the season, and don't over-schedule the day before or after. The value of a Sahara night comes from the stillness, and that's easiest to appreciate when you're not rushing to or from it.

Read the story

Recent Stories

From the Journal

Ramparts of Essaouira overlooking the Atlantic Ocean

Why Essaouira Deserves a Full Day, Not a Half One

The Atlantic coast's quietest charm, and how to spend it properly.

Essaouira is often sold as a quick add-on: a couple of hours in the medina, a photo on the ramparts, back on the road to Marrakech by mid-afternoon. That schedule sees maybe a third of what makes the town worth the drive.

The morning belongs to the port

Arrive before the tour buses and head straight to the fishing port. Boats come in with the day's catch while gulls circle overhead, and small stalls nearby grill sardines and other fresh fish right at the dock. It's one of the few places in Morocco where you can watch the entire chain, from boat to plate, in the same hour.

The medina rewards slow walking

Essaouira's medina is smaller and calmer than Marrakech's, with wide, breezy lanes shaped by the town's history as a fortified Portuguese and later Alaouite port. Woodworkers using thuya, a local aromatic wood, still work from small shopfronts along the main streets, and their prices are generally more relaxed than souvenir stalls in busier cities.

Afternoon: the ramparts and the wind

Skala de la Ville, the sea-facing rampart lined with old cannons, is worth visiting twice: once at midday for the view, and once close to sunset when the light turns the stone gold and the Atlantic wind picks up. That wind, incidentally, is why Essaouira is also a serious windsurfing and kitesurfing spot, worth knowing if you're the type to extend a day trip into an overnight.

Budget a full day, ideally leaving Marrakech early. Rushing Essaouira into an afternoon means missing the port in the morning and the ramparts at sunset, which are really the two best parts of being there.

Read the story
Colorful textiles hanging in a Marrakech souk

How to Shop the Souks Without Overpaying

A local's honest guide to bargaining, quality, and what to look for.

Bargaining in the souks isn't a trick played on tourists, it's simply how prices work here. The listed or first-quoted price is a starting point, not the price. Understanding that changes the entire experience from stressful to genuinely fun.

Know roughly what you're looking at

Before naming a number, look and touch. Handmade leather has irregular stitching and a distinct smell; machine-finished pieces are more uniform. Real Berber rugs vary in knot density and wool quality, which is exactly why prices swing so widely between two rugs that look similar at a glance.

The rhythm of a negotiation

A typical exchange involves the seller naming a price, you countering meaningfully lower, and both sides moving toward a middle point over a few rounds. Walking away, literally leaving the stall, is a normal and expected move if the gap is too wide, and it often brings the price down on its own.

Where to go for what

Souk Semmarine is best for textiles and general goods, Souk Cherifia leans toward more curated, design-forward pieces, and the dyers' souk (Souk des Teinturiers) is worth a visit even if you're not buying, just to see wool being dyed in the open vats.

A few honest tips

Shop later in the day when foot traffic is lower and sellers have more time to talk. Pay in cash for better flexibility on price. And if a stall feels pushy or uncomfortable, it's completely fine to walk on, there are hundreds of others.

Read the story
Traditional riad courtyard with a central fountain

Riad or Hotel? What First Time Visitors Should Know

The real differences in privacy, service, and location inside the medina.

A riad is a traditional Moroccan house built around an interior courtyard, usually with a small plunge pool or fountain at its center and rooms facing inward rather than out to the street. That single design choice explains most of the differences guests notice compared to a standard hotel.

Privacy and scale

Most riads have between three and ten rooms, so service tends to be personal, often a small team who knows every guest by name within a day. Hotels, even boutique ones, operate at a different scale with more standardized service and more predictable amenities like a full-size pool or gym.

Location inside the medina

Riads sit inside the walls of the old medina, down alleys that cars can't reach, which means genuine charm but also a short walk with luggage from the nearest drop-off point. Hotels are more often in the Gueliz or Hivernage districts, with direct vehicle access and wider modern streets.

What to actually check before booking

Ask whether the riad has a working elevator (many historic buildings don't), how far the nearest vehicle access point is, and whether breakfast and airport transfer are included. Confirm the pool is heated if visiting outside summer, plunge pools in unheated riads are often more decorative than swimmable from November through March.

For a first Marrakech trip, we generally recommend a riad for the atmosphere and a central hotel only if step-free access or a full-size pool is a genuine priority.

Read the story
Tagine and mint tea served on a traditional Moroccan table

Five Dishes to Try Beyond the Tagine

A short list of what locals actually order, beyond the tourist menu.

Tagine deserves its reputation, but ordering it at every meal means missing most of what Moroccan home cooking actually looks like on a Marrakchi table.

1. Harira

A thick tomato-based soup with lentils, chickpeas, and often lamb, traditionally eaten to break the fast during Ramadan but served year-round in small neighborhood spots. Look for it as a starter rather than a main.

2. Rfissa

Shredded flatbread layered with chicken, lentils, and a fenugreek-heavy broth. It's a dish typically made for new mothers or special occasions, and harder to find on standard menus, ask if it's available rather than expecting to see it listed.

3. Zaalouk

A smoky, cooked eggplant and tomato salad, usually served alongside bread as part of a spread of small salads before the main course. It's a good indicator of a kitchen's quality, since it depends entirely on proper seasoning rather than a hidden protein.

4. Maakouda

Spiced potato fritters, often sold from street stalls and sandwiched into bread with harissa and salad, closer to Marrakech's version of fast food than a formal restaurant dish.

5. Sellou

A dense, sweet mix of toasted flour, almonds, sesame, and honey, eaten in small spoonfuls rather than as a full dessert portion. It's traditionally made in large batches for celebrations, so a small taste at a local café is the easiest way to try it.

None of these require seeking out a special restaurant, most appear on the daily menu at family-run spots away from the main tourist streets, often at a fraction of the price of a set tourist menu.

Read the story
Berber village nestled in the High Atlas Mountains

A Half Day in the Ourika Valley

Waterfalls, Berber villages, and mountain air, just an hour from the city.

The Ourika Valley climbs steadily out of Marrakech into the High Atlas foothills, and the temperature drop alone is worth the drive on a hot afternoon. It's one of the few half-day trips that genuinely feels like a different country from the medina.

The road itself

The route follows the Ourika River past small Berber villages, roadside stalls selling local walnuts and dried fruit, and terraced fields cut into the hillside. It's a scenic drive on its own before reaching any specific stop.

Setti Fatma and the waterfalls

The village of Setti Fatma marks the end of the drivable road and the start of a series of seven waterfalls reachable on foot. The first two are an easy, well-marked walk suitable for most fitness levels; the higher falls require steadier footing and more time, so plan accordingly if traveling with young children or limited mobility.

Local guides and lunch

Local guides at Setti Fatma are genuinely useful here, the path isn't always obvious and a guide can point out shortcuts and safer river crossings. Several riverside cafés serve simple tagines and fresh trout with tables set directly over the water, a nice reward after the walk up.

A half day is enough for the drive up, a walk to the first two falls, lunch by the river, and the drive back, ideally leaving Marrakech by mid-morning to avoid the afternoon heat on the return.

Read the story
Hot air balloons over the Marrakech palm grove at sunrise

What It's Actually Like to Balloon Over the Palmeraie

An honest account of the cold, the calm, and the view worth waking up for.

Ballooning over the Palmeraie starts absurdly early, pickup is usually well before sunrise, and that's the first thing people underestimate. The second is how cold it is standing in an open field at that hour, even in summer.

Before liftoff

Balloons launch from open fields on the edge of the Palmeraie, Marrakech's palm grove, and the crew spends around twenty minutes inflating the balloon while guests watch from a safe distance. It's worth arriving mentally prepared for a wait, wind conditions decide the exact launch time, not the schedule on paper.

The flight itself

Once airborne, the ride is far calmer than most people expect, there's no sensation of speed, just a slow rise and drift over date palms, small farms, and the Atlas Mountains on the horizon if the morning is clear. Flights typically last around an hour, though this depends on wind.

Landing and the traditional breakfast

Landing spots vary depending on where the wind carries the balloon, which is part of the charm and occasionally means a short walk to the pickup vehicle. Most operators follow the flight with a traditional Berber breakfast, msemen, honey, and mint tea, often served in a tent or under palm trees nearby.

Our honest take: it's less about adrenaline and more about the stillness and the light. Bring a warm layer for the early morning, and don't schedule anything demanding for right after, most guests want a slow morning following the breakfast, not a rush back into the city.

Read the story